Using a 5/64 Allen Key, I stuck it into the hole closest to the "outside" key hole. You'll notice two SMALL holes on either side of it. Stick your key into the outside key hole and turn it so the "bar" comes out. Take off the plate the covers the "lock bar" - the bar that comes out of door to lock it.Ģ. I need to explain this in detail: ( I apologize for not using correct terms)ġ. I've found that the best method in removing it is with a sharp pin, but hang onto it cause it tends to really fly sometimes on removal. Thiers have a nearly invisible circular spring clip around the inside cylinder that holds the cover plate in place, thereby covering the connecting screws. There are sometimes one for each cylinder, and some have only one that works a cog to lock in both cylinders.Ī little more thought on this brings to mind a double cylinder deadbolt made by Medeco (to name just one). Using a key inserted three quarters the way into the keyway usually works best in turning out the cylinder.Ī lot of "older" locks used a similar method as above to hold the cylinder in place except that the retaining screws are visible through the faceplate. About five turns counter clockwise on the allan key will allow you to unscrew the corresponding cylinder. You would need an allan key about 4 or 5 inches long to be able to reach the screws. If so, then it sounds like a "Lori" deadbolt with US Lock mortise cylinders. Did you have to remove the face plate on the bolt to see these two small holes on each side of the bolt?
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